Mermaiding at Koh Miang, island no. 4 of the Similan archipelago.
I am twice the age I was when I first set my sweet feet on Thai sand. Literally, almost to the exact month! This visit marks my 4th one to what is affectionately known as, "the land of smiles".
In many ways, it feels like coming home*. For many reasons. But that's a topic for another day. I love “coming back” to places, events, experiences; they mark for lovely little points of reflection. And this first week in Thailand has been no exception.
So much has changed.
Thailand, Phuket to be specific, is far more developed than it was in beginnning of the 21st centurary. (For persepctive, the annual number of visitors has more than doubled since my first visit in 2005 - from around10 million to now over 20!) The lense in which I see the world has evolved; my likes and interests expanded, my breath a little deeper, my bottom a little softer. Sweet and sour veggies with prawns was my go to meal; now I scan each menu for anything with cabbage, morning glory and miang leaves. All I wanted to do was walk through the markets and barter for souveniers and the latest fashion item; now I wish to visit as many monasteries as I can. Tanning was my favourite activity; now I’m looking for the nearest yoga studio or national park. I had no desire to drive too far to see new places. In fact, I got grumpy when we did. All I wanted was to optimze beach time and, by visit number 2, find the cheapest Red Bull bucket in Bangla Road!
Interestly, something I remember distincly was the pungent smell that usually carried in the air along the streets of Phuket. This time, there is no smell. I wonder if it was induced by all the tourists and the capcity of the island to host so many people.
I’m surprised I haven’t turned into a watermelon shake. I think that's why I love watermelon so much: one taste and I'm transported to my very first sip, sitting on a bar stool submerged in the pool at the Busakorn Holiday Inn with my dad and brother; that along with all the familiarities and nuances that are Thailand. I still can’t get enough of the three S’s - sea, sand and sun! There's at least one massage parlour down every street, a mobile food vendor on each corner and more 7 Elevens that there are tuk-tuks! There is still that muggy tropical air. Hibiscus flowers popping out amongst all the banana trees and lush vegetation. And then, there's the people. They are my favourite thing about this country. They are warm, open, friendly, gentle and ever so humble.
It’s a lot quieter now due to obvious reasons. Places which are usually popping at the seams with tourists, are currently spacious, serene spaces of magic. It’s sad in one way and special in another. It’s a privilege and a blessing to travel again. Arriving at the airport, observing all protocols necessary to make welcoming the *farang back possible, recognizing the loss that has been whilst simultaneously feeling that sense of hope that things will open up again to free-flowing human interaction and cross-cultural inspiration and connection.
Will it ever be the same again? We can only hope.
Anyway, I actually sat down to share my experience of the Similan Islands which we visited earlier this week. Nonetheless, we swam. We snorkeled. And we met people from various parts of the globe. There are no words I have to describe this day.
One week down and I can feel my mind, body and soul rejuvenated.
The lookout point at Sailing Rock, island no. 9
*Have you ever heard of astrocartography? It certainly speaks to the wanderlust amongst us. The way I understand it, is that it's a combination of astrology and geography, like a cosmic map of sorts. As my friend, Siobhan, puts it, “astrocartography highlights areas of the world that you can travel to (either by physically travelling there or by immersing yourself in the food, music, culture etc of that place) to best utilise the different energies the world holds especially for you". Siobhan offers astrocartography readings and if you'd like to find out more, have a look at her website below. I highly recommend having a reading with her.
https://www.lunafinula.com/ *farang – local slang for tourist #thailand #travel #islandliving #memories #reflection #growth #home #similanislands #archipelago #patong
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