3. A sari, a foot rub and a bus trip (Travels 2022)

Biddy's Boots #3

Kathmandu, Nepal

5 May 2022

Showee. The last 48 hours! Where do I even start?

I was having a low moment because I hadn't really met, or seen for that matter, any fellow travelers. So, I downloaded a hundred apps that were suggested on a blog post called The Five Best Travel Apps. Long story short, I found a Nepalese woman on one of them who offered various tours. So I did the touristy thing and went on a food tour at the Asan Bazaar in Thamel.

That morning, I caught a local tuk-tuk to Thamel. Listen, the traffic here is a whole other language and everyone loves to honk their hooters! It's as if they are in an endless loop of discovering their hooters for the first time. I crossed the highway over the zebra crossing, no traffic lights but always a traffic officer blowing his whistle and waving his hands. I ask a local where the tuk-tuk is, he points behind me, I jump in. About 12 locals (and me) literally wedged into the back of this tuk-tuk I thought, " This must be where the saying "squashed in like sardines" originated. I'm sure it used to be "squashed in like a bunch of Nepalis in a tuk-tuk during rush hour in Kathmandu". This city is wild. At times I felt as though I was in the eye of a tornado. Everything moving in an almost slow-motion fashion as people, vehicles, colours, sounds, smells and information swirled around me as I stood, gently moving, surprisingly unagitated, finding my calm in the chaos.

I also realised once I had jumped in the tuk-tuk, I had no idea where it was going. With a little grace from my team, I made it almost directly to Thamel with a few one word sentences and some head-nodding.

During the food tour, I met a traveler from India - Shri - and we had a lekker afternoon tasting and chatting. The best part was meeting Namrata, our tour guide. Having grown up in Thamel, she took me under her wing and shared her knowledge and suggestions freely. The next thing you know, I've been invited to a Nepalese/Hindu wedding. The following morning, I say my farewells to Sarita. Sanu House had become my home, my family in Kathmandu and I was sad to go. The whole house waved me off as I sped off down the road on the back of a scooter, backpack in tow.

We weaved our way through the morning traffic on what was a 25-minute trip, breaking dramatically every now and then at a rogue vehicle and coming to an almost complete stop when the only way forward was through the next massive pothole. South Africa ain't got nothing on these roads people! I kept my mask and glasses on to keep the dust at bay and at one stage it even started to rain! Where was I off to you might be wondering? Namrata's house! Yip, I was spending the night with my new friend. I arrived and her mother threw me straight into a beautiful blue sari. I was instructed to put some liquid eyeliner on, wear my dangliest earings, keep my watch on and ensure I had my sunnies. Oh, let's not forget, a big swipe of ruby red lipstick and a D&G black handbag. Those of you who know me well, know I'm no real fan of handbags, let alone one with a silver chain strap! Yeeek. They even forced some tiny sandals on to my feet because mine were not good enough. It was interesting to observe the difference in what we each saw as beautiful or fashionable. She wouldn't let me do it any other way.

We were dropped off in the streets of Thamel. And instantly, all eyes were on me! I felt like a celebrity. Everywhere we walked, people were commenting and some Nepali even asked to have their photo taken with me. I did actually feel like a princess. It was quite sweet. There are many things I could share about this wedding, but I'll keep that for another day - it was loud and busy and full of ritual. A huge celebration of colour, dance, food and offerings. A real honour to attend and experience. (I haven't received pics of the couple, but when I do, I will share.)

Namrata and I got home rather late that evening yet the whole family got up for dinner and we sat on the carpet in the lounge, eating with our hands and sharing stories. Her parents can not speak or understand much English, which meant Namrata and her 8-year-old daughter were constantly translating. Despite their humble lifestyle, they were incredibly generous and welcoming. Daughters are highly regarded, almost revered by their families, particularly by their mothers. Mothers are known to kiss and touch the feet of their daughters. Namratea’s mama was soon calling me her Jēṭhī chōrī (older daughter) and so, there I sat, receiving a coconut oil foot massage while they attempted to teach me some Nepali and share other customs.

After sharing Namrata's bed with her, I was up soon after sunrise in order to make it on time to catch the first bus out of Kathmandu to Pokhara - the gateway town to the Annapurna mountains. Again, my angels had my back. Her parents spoke to my taxi driver and sent me on my way. To put a long story short, instead of being dropped off at the main bus station, I was dropped off on the side of a main road where the locals catch their transport to work. It was raining, no one could speak English and my airtime was out! After about 15 minutes, I saw my bus coming along, waved him down and jumped in! Phew, I had made it!

I was placed next to the sweetest man visiting from India. What a blessing! He excitedly shared so much with me, answered all my questions about Inida (my next country) and looked out for me along the trip.

The bus. Ok, now I understand what people mean about these bus rides. In a nutshell, it took us 8 hours to travel 300km along a winding, wanna-be tar road in a full, 40-seater bus with no aircon. I was dirty, sweat was running down my back, and breaks would be slammed every now and then. It sounds harrowing. It was. Yet, I was very much at peace. I closed my eyes, said my prayers, decided not to look, and placed my trust in the driver. I even managed to sleep! I was somewhat relieved and happy to arrive in Pokhara where I made my way to Hotel Middle Path. What. A. Treat! Another bountiful blessing received from my brother who had surprised me by checking me into a tip-top hotel for the night! I had a double bed, a soft mattress, a towel, air-con, hot water and even my own bathroom! I blissed out and waded in gratitude for these pleasant luxuries.

Tomorrow I move to a nearby backpackers with a lake view. I am curious to explore this little town and prepare for my upcoming trek in the Annapurna mountains.

PS I had this idea to purchase a few disposable cameras to use sparingly along my trip, but never managed to get some before leaving SA. I had asked Namrata and Shri but they didn't even know what I was talking about. I tried googling but nothing came up in Kathmandu. I had surrendered to the fact that I'd probably only find some when I get to Europe and let go of the idea I had hoped to action. On my last day in Kathmandu, I was walking around the local tourist shops and randomly amongst all the clothes and trinkets, there I find a teeny, tiny electronics shop. I step in, doubtful but hopeful. My daisies, I danced with delight when I found some disposable cameras in there! Mostly because, what were the chances?! I got a great deal and walked out of there with a skip in my step!