Biddy's Boots #9
Dharamshala, India
11 - 30 June
I have come to realise one does not come to India for a holiday, but rather for an adventure; and experience. Or like my dear friend recently said, “not to see India, but to feel it” and I couldn’t agree more. I threw myself into India and boy, did she deliver. I have started saying that I am having a love affair with this country. She is full of colour and charm – from the outside, from the stories – and though she was all of this, there certainly was a mild case of infatuation taking place. I hadn’t expected the challenges of ‘riding solo’. But I am not one to back down and I kept my heart open and curious whilst India’s magic and charm kept me present, kept me staying. It has been a colourful ride thus far; I am wooed, I am challenged and my love for her is deepening every day; through every experience, every encounter, every moment.
Arriving in Dharamshala has been an absolute deep exhalation; I felt almost instantly cradled in the arms of a mother, a soft landing. Closer to the mountains, the smells and sounds of nature filled the silence with the view of hydrangeas and everything green just outside my window. Oooof, my soul is thanking me for a little grounding.
Somehow, I have hit the jackpot with the home I have found for my time here. Omtara House, a small, quaint little homestay run by a German-Indian family situated with one foot in Dharomkot, one foot in Bhagsu (all above McCleodGanj). Upon arrival and after traveling for almost 24 hours – including the umbrella/yoga mat hunt down – Ria rustled me up a most appreciated meal which consisted of homemade sourdough, scrambled eggs and of course, a big cup of chai tea! I have noticed the sign “Moon Witches’ Kitchen” above the kitchen door and I have no doubt that some secret ingredients find their way into her recipes, many of which she has inherited from her grandfather, including the fresh plum juice syrup I got to taste!
Just before I left Rishikesh, Libby (my Israeli friend) informed me that the Dalai Lama was scheduled to share a teaching after the weekend, for two consecutive days. I couldn’t believe my chances! On the Sunday morning, I made my way down to McCleod Ganj and stood in a 4.5hr line to register. I met the sweetest Nepali-German couple in the queue who shared their kindness and conversations. You’ll also never believe who rocked up in Dharmashala and who I met on my way out of registration – Fiorella! My Italian friend from the Annapurna mountains! We just keep bumping into one another and I love it so. She is a little angel-light that warms me up every time I see her.
The following morning, we left home together at 5am to get to the temple by 6 or so. An elderly Tibetan woman gave me a cup of (my first) Tibetan tea whilst standing in the (long) line to enter as streams of people gathered. Somehow (how?) I found a seat right near the front amongst thousands of people. I found myself nestled tightly between Fiorella, a gentle Russian yogini and an elderly Tibetan woman whose wrinkles ran deep and plentiful. I had a tiny direct view of where the Dalai Lama would be seated, a clear one of the screen and my earphones ready for the translation to begin. The continuous melodic chanting of “Om mani padme hum” echoed through the temple as everyone waited in excited anticipation.
His aura. His energy. The awe and adoration shared by admirers and people from all over India and the world, was something to behold, to witness, to feel. The Dalai Lama walked a long path to his seat, with someone on either side to support his balance, blessing many along the way. The teachings were about the path to enlightenment and an initiating of the Om Mani Padme Hum mantra - a well-loved Buddhist mantra commonly translated as, "The jewel is in the lotus." It is repeated over and over again to invoke the loving and unconditional qualities of compassion. He shared his teachings as we all sat on the floor together, many clothed in traditional Tibetan attire, whilst eating Tibetan bread and sipping on Tibetan tea as Your Holiness blessed us. We were given some grass to place under our pillows, to enhance our dreams and sacred water was sprinkled over our heads amongst other little gestures and gifts.
There is something so moving and connective when a (spiritual) leader laughs and jokes. He is utterly endearing and when he speaks or is near, one can’t help but stop in attention and admiration. When he left on the first morning, he walked right past where I was sitting - an arm’s length or two away. The old 'gaga' next to me, uttering some words in Hindi, placed a white silk scarf in my hands and gestured that I hold my hands up in reception and bow my head in reverence. At times little tears rolled down my cheeks. It was a truly remarkable experience; a purifying blessing.
Still processing my first 14 days in India, wowee; very happy to have found this peaceful sanctuary in the Himalayas. Only a few days in Dharamshala, and I...I am in love.
** Late edition – just remembered the meaning of pleasure in my title!
My relationship with food has been a long one. I don’t need to go into detail here with regards to the influence our society and media have had on my conditioning, but I caught myself – while traveling - being rather controlled with what I was consuming and if I indulged, the little voice in my head would wave his finger at me and I’d feel a mild surge of frustration. When I recognized this dialogue within I thought, “Absolutely not. No.” I have come to learn that whenever I restrict myself, I confine myself to a rather dull room, denying full pleasure.
SO I have decided to actively embrace the pleasures of food and eating it whilst here in Dharamshala. I am eating cake, people. Lots of it! When I remember or know of someone’s birthday back home, or any cause to celebrate on a friend or family’s behalf, my hand is up and without trying, a most delicious confectionary finds its way onto my lips. Four weeks have passed, and there is no doubt that this action and little lens adjustment has brought me just that – more pleasure, more joy – along with some delightful little finds and opportunities to share with new friends.
Here are just a few of my treats:
- Apple pie with Sunshine at Lhamo’s Croissant in McCleodganj for Siobhan- the cutest Tibetan-run cafe.
- Carrot cake for breakfast overlooking the valley at Open Heart Café for Courts + Lees
- (Death by) chocolate mousse cake on Ria’s porch next to the hydrangeas. Take note of how we use death here as a good thing; a heavenly ascendance. I’ll take more of that, please. for me.
- Bumble Bee German Cake – say what? New to me but not bad. For Case and Kelly.
- 30 INR cocoa balls from Llama Bakery. I may or may not have bought one every single time I walked past this little hole in the wall. The owners may or may not have given me a knowing smiland chuckledde at my addiction whenevethey sawwy my face.
- Banofie Pie. Why have I not had this before? Layered banana, caramel, biscuits and coconut. Wow.
- An experience tucking into “Hello to the King”, a decadent dessert made up of a biscuit base, caramelized banana, ice-cream, chocolate sauce, Bhagsu cake piece (think millionaire shortbread with a twist) and sprinkled with desiccated coconut. I will not easily forget this experience as my two Israeli friends and I yum-ed and hmmm-ed and wow-ed as we devoured this castle of desserts.
- Bounty hot chocolate with Libby and Colleen to celebrate our last night together in Manali.
Will most certainly be continuing this pleasurable activity. 💜
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