Biddy's Boots #10
Dharamshala, India
11 - 30 June
You know, I began my little travel journey for many reasons – to explore new tastes, sounds, sights and smells. To learn from other people. To see through others’ eyes, other cultures, other beliefs, other ways of being. To expand my heart and mind. To soften to the pleasures of life and travel – food and doing whatever my little heart doth desire. And also, to have a teeny break from the responsibilities of the classroom and paying bills.
And so far, I have. I have experienced all of the above. And of course, so much more as travel and life always do provide. But what’s surprised me most, is that I have ‘found’ God here; felt the spirit of God so strongly. Everywhere. In all experiences. In everything. In everyone. In me. It is as if my line to the Divine is immediate, clear, gently tethered. It has been such a beautiful reminder and such a blessing to experience, to see, to feel.
Within a day of having this realization, I attended my first Kirtan class one Sunday morning. It was held by a South African and a Russian woman. We sat in a wooden hall overlooking the valley, in circle as they guided us through some sweet melodies of prayer and mantras. Some were Hindu, some Spanish, English and one even from a tribe in Africa. I sat most of this time in soft tears, I think just moved by the beauty, grace and kindness of everything; in prayer, in worship, in thankfulness. But it was the last song tat really made the tears flow:
Step by step
Breath by breath
A little deeper, a little closer
Inside me, inside you
Inside God, inside it all
There is an energy in this place, In Dharamshala, that is tangible. It is exceptionally grounding, peaceful, filled with grace. I think maybe one could say, Dharamshala is an embodied open-heart village. I like to see it that way.
I have spent most mornings arising early in the tranquility of Ria’s homestay, I complete a little homework out looking out into the garden and then make my way up, through the pine trees, to Tushita. Tushita is a Buddhist mediation centre on the hill that holds community, donation-based guided meditations 6 days a week at 10 am. I would instantly feel lighter upon entering those gates (or maybe it was due to the little uphill climb), none the less, I loved it! And it kept calling me back again and again. I made my acquaintance with an elderly Indian man, Bunty, who has pretty much been traveling India for the past 6 years post his divorce. He was a gentle giant and we shared some chai tea after the mediations on a couple of occasions.
Although there are many, here are just three little stories of three people I met during my time in Dharamshala:
Yabeen
On arrival in Dharamshala (and after the umbrella-yoga mat hunt), I was walking around Bhagsu on a highly undulated path, my backpack making its presence felt, and almost at the end of my resilience; I bumped into a young Korean woman wandering around. She was slight in stature with thick dark curly hair highlighting her fair skin and glasses perched upon the bridge of her nose. She was a listening ear and an appreciated voice of encouragement as I off-loaded my straining desire to just get to my new home already. Our encounter did no last more than a minute or two and I was very soon in the ‘arms’ of Ria’s home.
A couple of days later, as I was walking briskly down the main road into McCleod Ganj, I noticed someone had stepped out of their accommodation, directly adjacent to and in stride with me. I looked up in unison with the woman who did a double-take and we both smiled as we recognized one another from the few days prior. We got chatting and she shared that she was soon to start a short reiki course in the nearby village.
Let me backtrack for a better picture here: one of my dear friends has encouraged me on several occasions that whilst in India I should look into completing a reiki course. It has also been something tickling my interest for a while. I had done some research in Rishikesh and upon arriving in Dharamshala. But, I eventually looked up to the heavens and said, “Reiki course, you find me please.” Not more than a couple of days later, and Yabeen pops into my orbit.
“Could this be it?” I thought, as Yabeen and I parted ways after exchanging numbers. I soon got in touch with Anja, the Reiki teacher, and after she referred to me as “Love” in one of her messages, my commitment was signed, sealed and delivered.
I won’t go into detail about the course other than to say I absolutely loved it! I looked so forward to the 5km walk through the Alpine forest to Naddi Village on each occasion and the connection that I shared with both Yabeen and Anja was truly something bigger than just the three of us. Every now and then, I have these experiences in life that bring me right back into my heart, that remind me of my purpose, of our purpose: to love, to emanate it, to share it. And this was one of them. I forget sometimes. And it is always a humbling, welcomed reminder when it comes around.
Yabeen and I kept bumping into one another throughout my time in Dharamshala, brief encounters outside of our reiki sessions with Anja. She is an ever so-gentle soul, highly sensitive, and at the tender age of 22, still learning how to understand and perhaps accept this sensitivity and the gifts she has – learning to ‘find her place’ in this world as she mentioned she did not have or never has had many friends. I often found her drinking tea on her own or keeping the company of a baba 3 times her age. Despite the mild language barrier, we connected deeply, more so energetically than through words. I managed to see her the day I left Dharamshala and she just wept when we said goodbye. She was the light that led to me to Reiki.
Vikram
I made a good friend in Pokhara whilst in Nepal. Vivian is her name; an Asian-American also slight in frame; soft, strong, wise and open. She has been traveling for years and her current solo adventure is into its fourth year. I know right?! Teach us how Vivian, teach us how! Anyways, she is a ‘foodie’ so to speak and has kept a trail (excuse the pun) of her travels on her blog which centers around tastes, smells, food! She has also been a little angel for me, a companion of understanding and an unofficial remote travel guide for my time in Dharamshala. Vivian insisted that I sniff out the very (dare Isy it?) best paratha India, let alone Dharamshala. Not the simplest outing. It required a 25-30 minute walk all the way to the green benches at the taxi stand in McCleod Ganj. And, I had to get there before 10:30 am as Vikram only operated between 7 am and then. With less than one week left in Dharamshala, I hit the road not too sure where I’d find these green benches. Vivian’s descriptions proved to be detailed and accurate and so, as I approaches the row of vendors, it was quick and easy to identify Vikram. I was so excited to find him, I smiled at him and proceeded to tell him (and remind him) of Vivian, showing him a picture of her too. Whilst he flipped the current paratha on the flame, he looked up and smiled backed, “Ah, yes, Vivian! Vivian my best friend. Where she now? Manali?”
I made my way to the green benches, nestled down between some locals and some monks whilst I tucked into a paratha, dal and chili chutney. Yum! And at just 30 INR (R8), I could certainly second Vivian’s claim. What a treat! While I write this, sitting in the Jeddah airport, I feel somewhat sad that I have had my last paratha in India, for a while at least. Damn they were good. I went back for Vikram’s paratha a couple of days later and found Mudin – the masala chai tea man whose little stall is built around a tree. On my third return for this paratha, I arrived just moments too late. They were sold out. Mudin, invite me in for tea, perhaps noticing the devastation in my eyes and offered me a two-for-one chai as I perched my bottom on a rickety bench. For only 15 rupees (R3), next to an old wise tree and just the perfect amount of spices, perhaps my best chai in India.
Vivian really paints the most vivid picture of Vikram’s stand and the atmosphere on that little road in the mornings. Do yourself a favour and give it a read here.
Ngawang
On this particular day, I had penned it in my calendar to head to the bazaar deeper towards the centre of Dharamshala. I had made a pit stop at Mudin for some tea, walked the Kora and 8kms later, found myself at the bazaar. Not entirely what I had expected and so I did not wander for long. Although it was cloudy and on the verge of rain, it was warmer and muggier than I had anticipated. I started my ascent back up the hill to McCleod Ganj. Within minutes the sweat was dripping off my brow but I refused to pay 350 INR to go10 minutes up the hill. I had my own legs to do that. But Iike I said, it was muggie. It was all uphill. I had clocked 10kms by now.
I decided to invite an experience in; I said a little prayer asking for a gentleman on his bike to pull over and offer me a lift to the top. Within 5 minutes, a Tibetan man did just that. I smiled in gratitude and hopped on! Halfway up the hill, we stopped for chai tea – of course - in the most unassuming spot. Ngawang, tall and lean with a warmth in his smile. He was kind, shy and gentle. We shared some stories, I spotted the most exquisite moonflower bush which reminded me of my two friends (Lisa and Siobhan) and Nqawang refused to let me pay for tea despite my insistence. He simply scurried to the counter, turned to me and said, “No. My idea to have tea,” whilst gently bowing his head.
When I talk about magic, these are some of the kinds of things I refer to – sweet little ingredients that add so much colour and simple joy to life. I don’t always see or feel it. But I do believe it is always there.
With love
Bridge
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